# Revolutionary Hair Color Science: AVEDA and Keracol’s Groundbreaking Research Unlocks the Molecular Secrets of Hair Dye Fading

*Published in Heliyon Journal, this breakthrough collaboration is set to transform the hair color industry*

The beauty industry has just witnessed a scientific milestone that could fundamentally change how we understand and develop hair color products. AVEDA, the renowned sustainable beauty brand under The Estée Lauder Companies, has partnered with innovative research company Keracol Limited to publish groundbreaking research in the peer-reviewed journal Heliyon, introducing the first-ever method to track hair dye molecules at the molecular level.

The Game-Changing Discovery

For decades, the hair color industry has relied on surface-level measurements to understand color retention and fading. Traditional spectrophotometric analysis could only assess bulk properties—essentially looking at what’s happening on the outside without understanding the complex molecular interactions occurring within the hair fiber itself.

This collaboration has changed that forever. The research introduces “an innovative measurement method that correlates dye molecular desorption with hair color shifts, irrespective of hair type and texture or background color.” For the first time, scientists can peer beneath the surface to understand exactly what happens when hair color fades.

From Museum Archives to Modern Hair Salons

The methodology behind this breakthrough has fascinating origins. Dr. Richard Blackburn, Professor of Sustainable Materials at the University of Leeds and co-founder of Keracol Limited, explains: “We adapted advanced dye-analysis techniques that were originally created for examining historical textile artefacts in museums.”

This innovative approach demonstrates how cross-disciplinary thinking can lead to revolutionary breakthroughs. The same techniques used to preserve and understand ancient textiles in museum collections have been reimagined to solve modern hair color challenges.

The Science Behind the Method

The research team developed a sophisticated extraction process using a specialized solvent mixture of water and pyridine to extract dye molecules from various hair types. This includes samples from blonde, grey, black curly, and bleached blonde hair—encompassing the full spectrum of hair textures and conditions that consumers experience.

High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis of these extracts allows researchers to track dye retention across different hair properties with unprecedented precision. This molecular-level insight reveals factors that influence color longevity and overall hair fiber health in ways never before possible.

Implications for the Future of Hair Color

Dr. Jeanna Zguris, Executive Director of Haircare Innovation and Analytical at Aveda, emphasizes the transformative potential: “This is a new approach to understanding hair dye on different hair types and textures, which will give us insight into new breakthrough technology in formulations and technology.”

The implications extend far beyond academic research:

**Enhanced Product Development**: Understanding molecular interactions enables the creation of more effective, longer-lasting formulations tailored to specific hair types and textures.

**Reduced Hair Damage**: The research provides “deeper insight into not just dye retention but also how hair color formulation can interact with and impact the overall health of the hair fiber.”

**Personalized Hair Color Solutions**: With molecular-level understanding of how different hair types interact with dye molecules, the industry can move toward more personalized color solutions.

**Sustainable Innovation**: Better understanding of dye behavior could lead to more efficient formulations, reducing waste and environmental impact.

A Decade of Collaborative Innovation

This breakthrough represents the culmination of a ten-year collaboration between AVEDA and Keracol Limited, demonstrating how sustained partnerships between industry and academia can drive meaningful innovation. The partnership combines AVEDA’s market expertise and commitment to sustainable beauty with Keracol’s cutting-edge research capabilities and green chemistry expertise.

Founded in 2011 by Professor Richard Blackburn and Professor Chris Rayner from the University of Leeds, Keracol has built its reputation on merging scientific rigor with nature’s brilliance, developing sustainable beauty solutions backed by advanced research and technology.

What This Means for Consumers

For the millions of people who color their hair globally, this research promises tangible benefits:

– **Longer-lasting color** with reduced fading

– **Less frequent touch-ups**, saving time and money

– **Healthier hair** through formulations that work with, rather than against, the hair fiber

– **Better results across all hair types**, as formulations can be optimized for specific textures and conditions

Looking Forward: The Next Chapter in Hair Color Science

This research represents more than just a technical advancement—it’s a paradigm shift that moves the hair color industry from trial-and-error approaches to precision science. By understanding the molecular mechanisms behind color retention and fading, researchers and product developers can make informed decisions about formulation improvements.

The publication in Heliyon, a respected peer-reviewed journal, validates the scientific rigor of this work and ensures the broader scientific community can build upon these findings. This transparency and commitment to advancing knowledge reflects both AVEDA’s and Keracol’s dedication to science-driven innovation.

The Broader Impact on Beauty Science

This breakthrough also signals a new era of collaboration between beauty brands and academic institutions. By leveraging techniques from completely different fields—in this case, heritage conservation—the research demonstrates how interdisciplinary approaches can unlock solutions to longstanding industry challenges.

The success of this collaboration may inspire similar partnerships across the beauty industry, potentially leading to breakthroughs in skincare, fragrance, and other product categories.

Conclusion: A New Standard for Hair Color Innovation

The AVEDA and Keracol collaboration has set a new standard for hair color research and development. By moving beyond surface-level observations to molecular-level understanding, this work opens doors to innovations that seemed impossible just a few years ago.

As the beauty industry continues to evolve toward more sustainable, effective, and personalized solutions, this research provides a roadmap for how scientific rigor combined with creative thinking can drive meaningful progress. For consumers, it promises a future where beautiful, long-lasting hair color comes with healthier hair and more sustainable practices.

This breakthrough reminds us that sometimes the most revolutionary advances come from looking at old problems through entirely new lenses—or in this case, through the lens of a museum conservator’s microscope, reimagined for the modern beauty industry.

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*The full research paper, “Method to analyse and quantify the propensity of hair dyes to desorb from human hair fibre,” is available in Heliyon journal, Volume 11, Issue 12.*